![]() Customers enjoying sushi handrolls at Yonsei Handrolls in Oakland. In which case, Itani simply drops all the ingredients on the table, so family and friends can build their own handrolls. In fact his 7-year-old daughter frequently demands cucumber and tobiko for dinner. But he says handrolls are also surprisingly easy to make at home. That way when you fold it over, there’s a flap that’s never touched the rice, so it stays crackling. Itani likes the nori a little longer and hitched higher on one side. ![]() The restaurant serves handrolls racked upright in wooden blocks shaped like half pipes. He said he considered what to do to really make it fun - plus he also just loved the idea of the handrolls, “because there’s so much more creativity.” He played with a couple of different concepts through the pandemic, but ultimately decided to break with sushi tradition. Yonsei literally means “fourth generation,” because Itani is the great-grandchild of Japanese immigrants. Itani opened Yonsei Handrolls in Uptown Oakland in October 2022, joining his other restaurants Hopscotch a couple of blocks away (which he closed earlier this month after 11 years of service), and Itani Ramen just next door. “So you have all those contrasting elements.” “The reason why this is better is because you have really crispy nori, warm rice, and cold fish,” he said. But also he believes that they’re tastier than your average takeout rolls (those tight cylinders would be maki), which quickly become one texture and temperature, save perhaps a sliver of cucumber for crunch. Kyle Itani likes that handrolls feel a little less reverential, compared to an omakase master setting down every single bite. It’s easy to understand the appeal - who can resist a cute repackaging of spicy hamachi, ready to scoop up and pop into your mouth, chased perhaps with a fresh beer or sake? And we’re not talking about a traditional temaki roll wrapped like an ice cream cone, but rather a new school of handroll folded like a taco. ![]() Let’s face it, fresh sushi never goes out of style in the Bay, and right now handrolls are having a moment. Chef-owner Kyle Itani likes the nori a little longer and hitched higher on one side. Handrolls served at Yonsei Handrolls are racked upright in wooden blocks shaped like half pipes. ![]()
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